Santiago

After a seemingly endless process of applying, waiting for a decision, preparing, and packing, I finally made it to Chile. I arrived in Santiago on February 28th, 2011. I was greeted by hot sunny weather and an incredibly patient driver at the airport. Packing clothes and gear for a year was no small task. I got quite a few perplexed looks as I toted my heap of luggage, including skis, from baggage claim to the taxi in the middle of the Chile's summer.

Santiago is a bustling city of 6 million surrounded by mountains and with no shortage of places to find good wine. I gave myself a weeklong layover here to explore. Armed with my guidebook and camera, I took to the streets. Being over 6 feet tall with blonde hair and blue eyes, it is obvious that I’m not Chilean; add the guidebook, big camera, and frequent need to stop and consult a map, I was basically a walking target, or so I thought, for the very pickpockets my Lonely Planet was warning me about. The number of people on the streets, at corner stores, and in shops who politely reminded me to keep my camera safe was far greater than the number of times I ever felt unsafe or targeted. This was a wonderful welcome to Chile, and a nice change from the seemingly continuous catcalls received in Cuba.

I was able to pack in a lot in Santiago. Highlights included:

Fine dining (not for the faint of heart or those that don’t like seafood) at Infante 51 with a newfound friend from Boston. Atop the Cerro San Cristóbal I saw a guy by himself with the same guidebook I have and also carrying a big camera. At the very least I knew he spoke English so I just went up and introduced myself. It was nice to have a travel buddy, even if it was just for the evening as we each had plans to go our separate ways the next day.

Centro Cultral Palacio de la Moneda is an underground cultural center. It is huge! Think of an airport hanger underground. It had some small gift shops and such, but the best part was an exhibit on American Art. It was broken down into two parts, El Suelo and El Viaje. It featured art from every corner of the Americas… it even had a Warhol, which instantly brought a smile to my face. Yay Pittsburgh!

Barrio Bellavista or the Bellavista Neighborhood of Santiago is really cool. It’s the hip, artsy, area of the city that is a little rough around the edges. The streets are lined with boutiques, brightly colored buildings, art galleries, and cafes. It is also home to La Chascona. Named for his third wife La Chascona is one of Pablo Neruda’s three homes in Chile. The house itself is really interesting, modeled after a boat, but the history is even more incredible. While in Neruda was in exile and right after the military coup of Pinochet, the entire house was looted and destroyed. One of a kind books were thrown into the landscaped pools and caused the place to flood. Today the house contains, among the many other great things Neruda had collected over his lifetime, a portrait of Neruda and his wife by Diego Rivera and his Nobel Prize. My favorite fact, however, was that each of his homes has more bars than bedrooms, and his homes have a lot of bedrooms. My favorite was the bright yellow bar overlooking the city… I wouldn’t mind sipping a Pisco Sour there! I have not read much of his writing nor do I know much about his life, but this was a great introduction. I admire people who have a gift and are able to share that with the world, but don’t take themselves too seriously. I would love to visit his other two homes.

Other sites I went to see:

Delicious Chilean food at Bar Liguria, Plaza de Armas, Catedral Metropolitana, Correo Central and Museo Postal, Museo Chileno de Arte Precolombino, Palacio de la Moneda, Barrio París-Londres, Biblioteca Nacional, Iglesia, Convento y Museo de San Francisco, Cerro Santa Lucía, Museo de Artes Visuales, Parque Forestal, Estación Mapocho, Mercado Central, Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes, Cerro San Cristóbal, Virgen de la Inmaculada Concepción, Funicular, and Museo Anthropología

Besides having a chance to get to know the city, I was in Santiago for my Fulbright Orientation. Before scattering to different cities and towns throughout Chile all of the grantees got together for two days. In addition to logistics and guest speakers, each person gave a presentation. Every project described was unique, well developed and super interesting. I am in great company, and truly honored to be part of the Fulbright Chile program.

Orientation wasn’t all meetings and presentations. On our second day we took a tour of the Concha y Toro winery. Yum.

Santiago was great. If given the chance, you should go. But then again, I would probably say that about any new place I get the chance to explore. I love being open to new things. After a week of the city life I was more than ready to fly even further south to Coyhaique and (warning: this next part is cheesy) fulfill a lifelong goal of experiencing Patagonia. I will gladly trade the metro for hitchhiking, the skyscrapers for mountains topped with glaciers, and street shoes for hiking boots… now the real adventure begins!!!